Stone carvings at Banteay Kdei temple, Cambodia

Banteay Kdei – Searching for Buddha

Temples built by Jayavarman VII (reign 1181–1220 CE) tolerated the coexistence of Buddhism alongside Hinduism. Later in the 13th century, during the "Hindu Reaction", Buddha sculptures throughout Banteay Kdei were defaced by Shaivite zealots. The sloppily applied defacings left hidden Buddhas throughout the temple that remain to this day.

In approaching the temple I met a guide that badgered me to show me the best photo opportunities throughout the temple. I shrugged him off, but he persisted and started showing me the exact spots for the best photos. After he pointed out a few I realized that he knew what he was doing. We agreed to $3 for a full temple tour. He walked me through the temple for about 45 minutes and pointed out every Buddha that was missed by the zealots. I gladly gave him $5, to which he responded — how about $10.

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